Help!!! [Don’t want to burn the house down.]
Q: Hi all very simply it’s copper tubes, small pc fans, and surrounding the copper tubes is several 15 to 20w quartz halogen (I think?) heater spotlight lamp bulbs. If this is placed in a wall to heat a small bathroom bringing cold air outside in, will it be able to do so? Thanks a bunch – any recommendations for efficiency or a similar design welcome. – A1d4n_18
A: Sounds pretty good to burn your house down. How is this cheaper than something UL approved?
You’ll also not be anywhere near the same efficiency as something off the shelf. Don’t do it.
This. Pick up a wall can at the local big box home improvement warehouse for $100-200. It’ll not be a fire hazard AND it recycles warm air from the room, not cold outside air.
user Mr_Assault_08 asked:
Getting a new home and I noticed the water build up in the drain pan. It wasn’t here when they installed it, maybe after they tested the heater or something. But I’m worried the water here will eventually (years) damage the tank. So how do I drain it??
Answer: You could just sponge it out. At the big box hardware stores, they have sponges in the tile section that would work great.
Another alternative answer: Check your pressure relief valve. It’s probably blowing off. If it is, you’ll want to get a water pressure gauge and check your water pressure. If it’s above 85 psi you’ll want a water pressure regulator at your main and an expansion tank on the cold feed to the water heater. If you get this far make sure to brace the expansion tank so it doesn’t snap your water line and pump it up to match the pressure of your house. Hopefully it’s just a bad relief valve. Good luck bud
User necron52 writes:
Bought this house in June. One of the first things I did was buy new toilets because the ones here were disgusting (family of 5, 3 boys, and if they ever scrubbed under the rim of their toilets it’d be a surprise to me, they were AWFUL).
My plumber installed both new toilets and said everything underneath looked good. But since day one the wife and I have noticed an odd smell in the downstairs bathroom.
It isn’t mold, exactly. It isn’t pee, exactly. It isn’t sewer gas, exactly. It’s just weird and bad. We can’t pin it down to a particular time of day, or any specific weather conditions. It doesn’t seem more or less prevalent with use or disuse of that toilet.
Tonight I got a strong wave when I opened the toilet lid (we close them because 3 cats) and got the idea to sniff the water in the bowl before doing my business.
It’s the water in the bowl. Not the water in the tank – that smells fine. But the bowl is AWFUL smelly.
What could cause this? Where do I even point my plumber to get started? Is there any chance it’s something I could fix myself?
That is one the strangest things I’ve ever heard. There is no way that odor can escape the P-Trap in the toilet bowl if it is full of water. Have the customer smell around the base of the toilet where it mounts to the floor and see if the odor is coming out at that point and not the bowl. If the closet flange is below the floor level then wax ring seal may not be pressed against the toilet and making a complete seal. If the wax ring is not crushed when the toilet is removed then that is the problem, the fix would be to add another wax ring. Make sure is a PLAIN WAX ring that has no plastic sleeve inserted.
– Rick Ensley, SureSeal Product Manager
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Working on replacing my kitchen faucet – seems pretty straightforward, got the old one out, but ran into a funny thing when about to put the new one in. Top part of my photo are the water connections under the sink. One on the left seems pretty obvious, threaded outlet. In the bottom photo, the black hose I’m holding on the right hand side is from the faucet itself – all well and good to hook the two up.
But what’s the deal with my right-side water supply? Seems like the hose is crimped on or something and can swivel around, but I’m not sure it unthreads. Is there a name for this type of connection?
In any event that white hose leads to the larger female fitting on the left side of my bottom photo. Ultimately I need to get that larger female end of the supply, to connect up to the smaller female end of the faucet hose.
Should I just need to pick up a male/male adapter fitting? I should have taken a closer look before I left for work this morning but are these typically straight thread or NPT?
Answer: The valve on the right has the hose built onto it. Two choices, shut off water and replaced with same type of valve as on the left or get a compression union. They usually come with the nuts which you can discard.