I’m trying to replace a 40 year old tub drain in a steel tub. The dumbell tool I have doesn’t fit down into the crosspiece to grip properly and every tool I’ve tried to get down into it to unscrew it has broken when I try to unscrew it.
I’m picking up a drain key which should help me get more leverage (and shouldn’t break). I’m assuming the fact that there is 40 year old putty hardened onto the drain is causing most of the issues. Any tips to working this out without breaking a pipe or causing damage would be greatly appreciated!
For extracting tub drains, Rectorseal manufactures a tool called the Golden Extractor. Using a standard 3/8” ratchet, the Golden Extractor is designed to grip the inside of the tub drain even when the cross arms are rusted or broken off. When turning the ratchet counter clockwise, the tool distributes equal pressure at three contact points of the drain making it easy to extract without any damage to the tub shoe. The Golden Extractor is also designed for installing new tub drains without scratching the new surface.
– Jerry Tomasello, Director of Sales – Plumbing
I noticed today that my well pump is short cycling. I checked the air pressure for the bladder which was around 30 PSI.
The tank seems to hold steady around 50 with no water running. As soon as I open any faucet, the tank pressure will dip down within seconds and I hear the click of the pump kicking back on and the tank will hit 50 again within a few seconds and this will continue on and on. Gently tapping on the tank, it seemed fairly empty.
If the tank itself is not actually water logged it could be that the nipple and/or bowl of your pressure switch are full of sediment. Is the gauge actually operational, or is it stuck at 50?
I’d drain it down, double check to make sure it’s actually empty (should be relatively light) check your air pressure against the switch settings (tank air should be 2 PSI less than your cut-in pressure), and unthread the pressure switch and nipple to examine for debris. – ParksVS
User chapsley asks: I poured five gallons of water directly down the drain and didn’t get any leaks, so I believe it’s the tile. I’ve ran silicone caulking around where the floor meets the wall and the leak has gotten better but not gone. Anyone have an idea how I should proceed?
Answer: Tear it out. Install a shower pan and re-tile it. It sucks but that’s your only real fix.
ItJustGotRielle adds: Unfortunately this is the case. The pan and membrane were not installed or were installed incorrectly.
Follow us on Twitter, Facebook, and LinkedIn.