I noticed today that my well pump is short cycling. I checked the air pressure for the bladder which was around 30 PSI.
The tank seems to hold steady around 50 with no water running. As soon as I open any faucet, the tank pressure will dip down within seconds and I hear the click of the pump kicking back on and the tank will hit 50 again within a few seconds and this will continue on and on. Gently tapping on the tank, it seemed fairly empty.
If the tank itself is not actually water logged it could be that the nipple and/or bowl of your pressure switch are full of sediment. Is the gauge actually operational, or is it stuck at 50?
I’d drain it down, double check to make sure it’s actually empty (should be relatively light) check your air pressure against the switch settings (tank air should be 2 PSI less than your cut-in pressure), and unthread the pressure switch and nipple to examine for debris. – ParksVS
Tresq13 asks: When it is raining I can hear pinging noise that sounds like rain drops in my central air/furnace unit in my basement. There is no rain on the ground near the unit and it appears dry within. At first I thought it might just be condesation drip sounds but it seems too coincidental that it was during a rain shower.
Any idea what this is?
Answer: With a gas furnace water could be dripping down the flue pipe or just pinging on it. Sound travels very well through steel. (Is it a problem?) Long term yes… it could rust several components and cause them to fail earlier than normal – Tranic
RectorSeal Blaze Foam is intumescent compressible foam used to firestop head of gypsum wall joint applications both dynamic and static.
Designed for installation within fire resistive joints with up to 2 hours F rating, RectorSeal Blaze Foam provides dynamic movement with up to 50% compression (see UL systems) and 100% extension capabilities for max joint width 1/4″ to 1″.
RectorSeal Blaze Foam is simple to install for head of wall applications. Compress the Blaze Foam into the joint between the top of the wall and bottom of the deck so that the intumescent strip is facing the wall surface. RectorSeal Blaze Foam can be recessed into the joint or installed flush with the outside surface of the wall. Joints are butted together. No mechanical fastening of Blaze Foam is required.
RectorSeal®, Houston, a leading manufacturer of quality HVAC/R tools and accessories, introduces the PRO-Fit™ Precision Flaring Kit, the next generation pipe flaring tool for copper and aluminum tubing used in air conditioning and refrigeration work. PRO-Fit’s unique pipe flaring tool design/method is the easiest, quickest and most reliable method, because it helps prevent potential sidewall splits and leaks associated with slow traditional flaring tools when forming 45°, field-applied refrigeration tubing flare connections.
The kit consists of five bell-shaped, color-coded, size-inscribed flaring bits designed for 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 5/8 and 3/4-inch (6, 7.5, 12, 16, 19-mm) tubing. The flaring process requires just seconds to complete using a (minimum) 12v drill or impact driver. The spinning bit forms the tube opening into a flare, without splits, burrs, blemishes or uneven edges that typically cause flare fitting connection leaks. The bits are also the most efficient option for flaring short stubs or existing tubing in cramped spaces with limited accessibility for traditional flaring tools/blocks.
The kit’s 7.5 x 11 x 2-inch (19 x 28 x 5-cm) clear durable plastic carrying case includes an interior foam organizer with cutouts sized to fit each respective bit. A four-color 7.5 x 11-inch instruction sheet mounted under the foam is readable through the bottom of the plastic case bottom without removing.
Other features of the PRO-Fit Precision Flaring Kit include:
Product available early August 2017.
The kit is the first offering from RectorSeal’s newly-created PRO-Fit brand. Going forward, Rectorseal will continue to introduce more tools and consumables for the HVAC/R trade.
User chapsley asks: I poured five gallons of water directly down the drain and didn’t get any leaks, so I believe it’s the tile. I’ve ran silicone caulking around where the floor meets the wall and the leak has gotten better but not gone. Anyone have an idea how I should proceed?
Answer: Tear it out. Install a shower pan and re-tile it. It sucks but that’s your only real fix.
ItJustGotRielle adds: Unfortunately this is the case. The pan and membrane were not installed or were installed incorrectly.